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Jun 29, 2022 /contributor-heleen, hair science, science

HAIR MYTH BUSTING 01: more product does not equal better hair

Trying tons of products to fix your damaged hair? Adding more and more products to your routine hoping to return hair to some sort of healthy state?

 

This Science Sunday is all about understanding how and which products can (or cannot) repair your damaged hair.

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In order to find out what type of products work to repair damaged hair, we first need to understand what the origin of damaged hair is and dive a little deeper into how hair products actually work or affect the hair. 


inside the world of hair

Hair mainly consists of protein, keratin specifically. Within the hair fibre, there are two layers that can get damaged. The most inner layer is called the hair cortex and comprises the major portion of the hair fibre. The cortex is responsible for the (mechanical) strength, elasticity, and shape of the hair. The cortex is protected by 8 to 10 layers of overlapping cells, which we call the cuticle—these form the outermost layer of the hair fibre. The state of the cuticles (damaged or undamaged) affects the hair’s feel, shine, comb-ability, and level of protection of the cortex. 

Both layers (cortex + cuticle cells) can get damaged, which can mean double the damage. 


outer layer damage

The outermost layer is easily damaged by daily grooming habits (such as brushing/combing, washing and blow drying) but also due to environmental factors (such as frequent exposure to water, pollution, UV, and variable climatic conditions). A consequence of a damaged outermost layer is the rough, coarse feel of hair and a reduced protection of the cortex. 

The hair cortex is mainly damaged by chemical services (such as bleaching, coloring, perms, and straightening treatments), but can also be damaged by excessive heat styling and grooming habits. 

The result of a damaged cortex is a loss of hair strength (i.e., your hair breaks more easily). The hair becomes less strong, and the shape and elasticity are affected. 

So, for the most wholistic approach to hair health, we need to focus on repairing/protecting both the outermost layer (the cuticle cells) and the inner layer (the hair cortex). 


the deal with your hair products

Traditional conditioning and styling products work primarily on the outermost layer of the hair. These products attach to the outer layer of the hair and smooth the surface or fill the gaps that occur (due to damage) between the cuticles—think of it kind of like concealer, filling in the areas that need a little more coverage. This sounds great in theory, but ends up being only a temporary fix because the conditioning agents are washed away with the next wash. 

Traditional rebonding products work to patch damage and repair broken bonds in the cortex, acting like a hard glue, but they also wash away with water. This again is a temporary fix but also doesn’t address the core structure of hair that contributes to hair strength and elasticity. 

So while conditioners may deliver that silky smooth feeling and rebonding products fix part of the problem, the inner keratin layers responsible for the strength of the hair are not repaired by either. 

In order to repair damaged keratin in the cortex—and get strong hair again—the product needs to be able to reach the hair cortex and interact with the damaged keratin on a molecular level. 


strength where it matters

A product which aims to repair the inner cortex needs to contain chains of amino acids which has the best matching sequence with the hair keratin in order to permanently attach to it. The sequence of this peptide is therefore very specific. 

The K18Peptide™ is that specific puzzle piece to seamlessly fit in and renew strength at the core level.

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