Troubleshooting routines with PRO expert, Alifia
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help your clients troubleshoot with Alfia’s community answered Qs
You’re going about your typical wash + style routine, but your go-to products aren’t working like they should. How come? While your hair routine is unique to you, struggling with less-than-great product results happens to everyone (even me). Let’s get to the bottom of why your routine is going awry…
question: why aren’t my products working?
The products you use, your natural oils, or metals + minerals found in your water (more on that here) can all leave behind buildup. This creates a film that covers your hair fibers and blocks products from penetrating and working properly. While buildup happens to everyone, it uniquely impacts curly + coily hair because our hair holds onto a lot—especially when we co-wash or use styling products for slip.
Try a detox shampoo to remove buildup for better product penetration + results. If you’re still not seeing the results you expect, ask your stylist for a chelating treatment in the salon. This tackles stubborn metal + mineral buildup that most shampoos can’t remove for vibrant, smooth, and bouncy curls + coils.
question: how do I combat frizzy, dry hair?
The buildup I mentioned earlier doesn’t just block products, it also blocks hydration from being absorbed by your curls + coils. If they’re still feeling frizzy and dry after clarifying or chelating, the issue might be the products you use. You see, your scalp + hair environment are happy at a pH of 4.5-5.5. Most products aren’t formulated with this in mind, so they throw your scalp + hair off balance and cause irritation. Look for pH-optimized products that will preserve your scalp microbiome + protect your hair’s moisture levels for shiny and smooth curls–coils.
question: why isn’t my hair growing?
If your curls + coils aren’t reaching the lengths you want, it could be due to breakage. This happens from different types of damage coming from multiple places in your routine. Think metal + mineral buildup from your water, mechanical damage from brushing or towel drying, heat damage from hot tools, chemical damage from salon services, and environmental damage from just living with hair. Yeah, there’s a lot that can get in the way of hair growth.
The fix? Thoroughly cleanse more often than you think (here's how) + get your hair chelated in the salon to remove damaging metal and mineral buildup. To prevent mechanical and heat damage, try gently drying without heat. If your self-expression routine calls for heat styling, use a heat protectant first to mitigate damage and breakage. I know avoiding damage is easier said than done, so treat your curls–coils to a repair treatment that works on a deeper level to bring your healthy bounce back.
question: how do I make detangling easier?
Sticky residue from buildup makes separating your strands difficult. That film left on the surface leaves your hair feeling rough, giving you a tough time while you detangle. You may end up using conditioner or styling products to add slip, which adds to the buildup and the rough feeling I just mentioned—it’s a vicious cycle. The key to easy detangling is to start with a clean hair base and use your fingers for more control, and less snagging.
PRO tip: to save time, try detangling while you shampoo. This provides slip while removing buildup—leaving your hair clean, tangle-free, and ready to repair and style right out of the shower.
However you choose to detangle, begin with damp/wet hair. Work in 1–2" sections starting from the ends, finger-detangling your way up to your scalp. If you’re doing this with shampoo, don’t forget to thoroughly rinse before starting your routine.
question: why are my curls + coils going limp?
Hair damage and buildup can leave your hair stretched and limp. After shampooing, focus on holistic damage repair to renew strength, elasticity + revive your curl pattern or try giving your curls extra definition with hair gel, custard, or curl cream.
PRO tip: look for styling products with humectants—ingredients that attract and retain moisture from the environment like glycerine, propylene glycol, panthenol, aloe, and flaxseed. This will lock in hydration and boost shine.
When you’re ready to style, here’s the routine I use on my curly–coily clients.
Evenly distribute your styling product on damp hair, section by section.
Next, layer a curl-defining product with a medium-firm hold to lock in that definition.
Dry your style to set it in place. You can:
Plop or target dry with a moisture-wicking towel for fast drying without damage.
Air dry
Use the diffuser attachment on your blow dryer—just don’t forget the heat protectant!
Notice a common thread with how buildup and hair damage can mess with your routine? No matter what your regimen looks like (or what trouble it’s causing), remember you can always achieve a curl reset with a clean, healthy hair base.
x Alifia, Curly-Coily Expert + K18 Educator
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